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"Moderator"
Picture of James W.
Posted
Anyone have any secret methods they want to share, specifically concerning the 924s?

[Edit by John]

Everyone, you will wear Bates924 boots in BUD/S.

http://getfitnow.stores.yahoo.net/bates924.html

This message has been edited. Last edited by: <John Munis>,
 
Posts: 869 | Location: San Diego / Chicago / Florida / ?? | Registered: 20 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Picture of Alex B.
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I was given some advise from an old salty Jarhead.

What you will need
1.Kiwi saddel soap
2.Kiwi shoe polish (black)
3.A scrub brush and soft rag

The idea is to break down the leather and make it soft and pliable. Start by removing your boot laces and insole. Next, with one hand inside your boot run warm water over it in a sink, dip your scrub brush into the saddel soap and start scrubbing! You should work on all leather area's of the boot heal to toe. Repeat this step until it has a dull gray color and porous surface. This can take some time, but your efforts will pay off later. The job can get a little messy so I would try and cover your work area as not to destroy your mom's kitchen or piss off your roomate's. When your done breaking down your boot's set them out to dry for a day or two. Once dry apply a new layer of polish with a soft rag and take them out for a spin. I used this method on my 922's and then did a 10 mile hump on some extremely steep terrain to brake them in. I suffered no blistering or chaffing!

Happy Humping!!


" DEDICATION , MOTIVATION , DETERMINATION "
 
Posts: 174 | Location: MANHATTAN BEACH,CA | Registered: 10 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
"Ranger"
Posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Tom Harris:
What I do is wear them around all day for a few days and at nights I shower in them, hot shower, so the leather loosens up and forms to my feet.

"Goal oriented people find ways"

***********************************************
I would soak them in hot water in the tub, then go for a 1-2 mile hike. Put saddle soap on them after the hike so the leather doesn't crack when it dries. Repeat for a few days. Remember you have break your boots in for hiking and running. Different areas of your foot rub when you walk and run, so you must run and walk in your boots to really break them in
 
Posts: 17 | Registered: 04 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Something I found on SOCNET:
http://www.socnetcentral.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threa...page=20&pagenumber=2

The post by "Magician" Mentioned:
quote:

9. Depending on the type of boot you get, you may or may not need to shape them to your feet to accelerate or facilitate the "break-in" process. There are a million methods of accomplishing this. Some folks wear their boots in the shower, and then walk around with them wet until they dry on their feet. Some folks just wear their boots for a month until they are broken in the hard way.

I used to literally soak my boots in a BUCKET of Neet's Foot Oil, which can be a very expensive proposition if you go to the store and see how much an entire bucket's worth will cost you. The thing is, Neet's Foot Oil breaks down the leather, whether you are using old-style authentic green jungle boots, newer-style black jungle boots, full-leather standard Army-issue boots, or whatever. I have no idea what kind of boots are issued these days, or permitted. But Neet's Foot Oil can make your boots softer than slippers, meaning the uppers will be nice and soft, and waterproof as HELL. When you are a grunt, and you live and die on your feet, no money is too much for the right ****, and Neet's Foot Oil IS the ****. No, I don't own stock or Neet's Foot Oil futures.

10. The Neet's Foot Oil treatment is only appropriate for boots worn in the field. It will ruin all chance for boots to look "normal" or pretty for garrison purposes, but for field boots, you will thank me every day you wear them in the bush if you prepare your field boots in this way. I used to soak my boots, completely immersing them, (at least just the leather part, or completely, if they were all leather boots), for about two weeks. No kidding. Periodically, I would pull the boots out, and rough up the outer surface with a steel brush, carefully. This was so the Neet's Foot Oil could soak in deeper into the leather, completely saturating it. When I came back from the bush, I would clean my boots, then reinsert them into a bucket, or just liberally coat them repeatedly with more layers, to maintain the water repellency and softness.

11. Boots prepared in this way are completely waterproof. They will leak Neet's Foot Oil onto your socks for awhile after you prepare them (this is ugly, but harmless), but they will last a long time, remain totally waterproof, and require very rare applications of black shoe polish, which means you can skip packing a can of polish and a rag in your ruck. Your boots will stay black, no matter what, and you will not have to polish them. Your boots will get softer than hell, and very comfortable, and you will like them more than tennis shoes. Your boots will be as waterproof or more so than a set of gore tex boots, but they will be a hell of a lot cheaper, even considering the cost of the Neet's Foot Oil (it might cost around $20-30 for enough to immerse your boots, with a bucket large enough to fit both boots in it).


An interesting method.


" I do not believe in a fate that will fall on us no matter what we do. I do believe in a fate that will fall on us if we do nothing."
-Ronald Regan
 
Posts: 504 | Location: Seattle | Registered: 18 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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By the way, are you suppose to wash off those saddle soaps or leave them on like it says on the can?


" I do not believe in a fate that will fall on us no matter what we do. I do believe in a fate that will fall on us if we do nothing."
-Ronald Regan
 
Posts: 504 | Location: Seattle | Registered: 18 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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